Stage 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona

Via Roncesvalles and Zubiri

72 km

This was a stage characterised by a dramatic change in landscape over just a few days. From St Jean Pied de Port you walk up and over the Pyrenees via the Napoleon Route, reaching a maximum height of just over 1,400m. Now given that I live at an altitude of around 1,200m, this didn't seem like too big a deal in my head, but when you start in the morning from 200 metres and walk up for around 14km then I did find this quite a challenge! There is an option to take the lower Valcarlos Route, also know as the Road Route. It's less strenuous and passes through the valley and the total climb is around 400m. Historically this was a route that pilgrims would have avoided for fear of bandits hiding in the trees in the forests along the way. It's also an option when the weather is too inclement to go 'up and over'. However, I was never going to take this lower route; the effort and hard work of climbing were rewarded with the most fantastic views, plus the amazing sense of achievement once walking down the other side!

Main highlights from this section include:

1) The rain stopping around an hour into the start of our walk and the sun putting in an appearance

2) Watching a flock of Griffon Vultures soaring high above us on the mountain thermals. These majestic creatures have a wingspan of up to 2.5m (8 feet) and there are 1,800 pairs in the region - the biggest concentration in the world

3) Managing to keep going and make it to the top; I didn't even stop at the random food truck that was parked about half an hour before the summit! I literally felt like I was on top of the world

4) Walking over the border from France into Spain

5) Not so great was the VERY steep, rocky and stony descent having come over the Pyrenees

6) Meeting new people along the way

7) Sleeping overnight in the monastery at Roncesvalles with around 248 other people! The monastery was founded in 1127 (by the Bishop of Pamplona, by order of King Alfonso I ‘the Battler’) to help pilgrims crossing the Pyrenees into Spain. Most Spanish pilgrims/peregrinos will begin their pilgrimage from Roncesvalles rather than from St Jean Pied de Port

8) The change in scenery from mountains, to beautiful woodland and forests, changing to lowland riverside walking the closer we got to Pamplona

9) Regularly passing through pretty quaint Spanish villages, medieval Churches and historic monuments and plenty of places to stop, take a breath and marvel at the beautiful scenery

10) Being very impressed with how well the Camino is signposted. So much effort has been made to ensure you stay on the right track. More of this in a later post

11) I had anticipated the walk into Pamplona to be alongside busy, noisy roads. However, we were treated to a wonderful 45-minute walk through a beautiful shaded park, before crossing a bridge over the river and through the historic city walls to our destination

12) Enjoying our first rest day in Pamplona, which was very much needed. It's a beautiful University city buzzing with activity, amazing architecture, history and food (and great shops). Pamplona has opened its doors to pilgrims from France since medieval times

13) The weather was both good and not so kind to us. Starting in the rain, we then walked a few days in ever-increasing temperatures, reaching Pamplona when it hit 30 degrees. Pleasant at times, the heat could became challenging to walk in by late morning

14) But possibly the best thing about this stage . . . . . no blisters

The sense of achievement having completed this section was accompanied by a feeling of elation. Deep down I think I had always been questioning whether I had both the physical and mental capacity to do this walk and very slowly my doubts were being replaced by a strong motivation to keep going. I quickly learnt to focus only on what I had to achieve in one day. Early on, I kept thinking about walking the full 800km with Santiago looming in the (very far) distance. I found these thoughts overwhelming, so quickly developed a habit of thinking only of the task in hand, ie to reach that day's destination. Since then, during difficult days (I am writing this on Day 9) I break the walk down into even smaller, more achievable chunks in my head, eg telling myself I only need to reach the next village for a sit down and a hot drink, or to complete the next 5km, etc. It seems to be working.

Up and Over the Pyrenees:

Crossing over the border from France into Spain:

Spanish descent of the Pyrenees:

Roncesvalles:

Roncesvalles to Zubiri:

Zubiri to Pamplona:

Pamplona: